Autumn is here. My bathroom is filled with the sounds of Italian walkers. Cries of “Ciao Ciao” echo from the lane outside the window, through the kitchen, and out through my only door. For those of you who are curious, I live on the footpath that crosses Monte Cecilia to Arquà Petrarca. Leave Arquà Petrarca towards Galzignano Terme or Torreglia and you have Montecelli, the archetypal Italian settlement, terracotta roofs peak out from behind the trees, and sunflowers fill the fields in true picture postcard fashion. Montecelli looks out across the plain to a huge vineyard.